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villa giulia june 2006
what do we like best about villa giulia? is it the warm welcome from adrian and michaela? the ease of booking? the warm climate and sandy beach? the comfort and seclusion of the villa? the facilities and
towns nearby? the surrounding countryside? la dolce vita of italy? or the marvels of rome itself? Fortunately there’s no real need to decide, and you can enjoy all these advantages.
we stayed in june 2004 and found the climate perfect warm and sunny, with a refreshing breeze on the beach. arriving at ciampino we hired a car [essential to book] and immediately outside the
airport found a sign to anzio - we took that road which was a straight if unexceptional route to the coast. later we discovered the gra round to the dual carriageway through pomezia which is slightly quicker - but watch the gra
as you wouldnt want to be in a jam in your first 20 minutes in italy! the private development of villas and gardens is special and the villa is happily situated so you can walk out of the development to the shops or stroll to
the beach. the garden is large and catches the sun from early morning to late evening. morning coffee on a seat on the grass in the sunshine; lunch on the terrace, with tomatoes basil mozarella salad cheese prosciutto bread
fruit and local wine..then back to the beach with its reserved deckchairs and parasol, clean sand, and inviting
waves. the shower is great after a swim...a walk up the beach..this is the life.. just outside the development is a fruit and veg cabin with excellent produce - as elsewhere just ask and you will be
given free basil; the supermarket is good for all things including bread and prosciutto and cheese. Alternatively in lavinio we found the pasticerria irresistible - croissants, and creamy filled cornets, gateaux etc etc. next
door is the butcher for fresh meat - in my very poor italian i asked for carne for sugo bolognese and the butcher kindly put the mince through the machine twice and it was superb; next to him is the fresh fishmonger; a good
fruit and veg shop; and a supermarket also selling bread and cheese and deli food - they will fill the big round rolls for you, ideal for a picnic or on the last day to avoid budget airline fodder. pharmacy and usual shops also
found in lavinio, or in anzio.
in anzio the supermarket near the square sells excellent local wine - a very drinkable and mild red at 2 euros a bottle, 3 for 2! and a cash machine in the bank off the square. there is also a huge
supermarket and pool / restaurant opposite the development but we didn’t get there. wednesday is market day in lavinio, from early til 1230 or so. apart from cheap clothes and towels, gifts etc the food section includes the
large [and excellent] fruit and veg stall - the husband spent years in boston and speaks good english. eating out is easy - at piccolo on the left toward lavinio the fish antipasti are great, the pizzas huge and
delicious [they also do take away], the fish dishes excellent, everything is reasonably priced and the service is charming, with lemoncello offered after the meal - no need to risk drink driving as you can easily walk there
[and back!]. in lavinio the gelateria [evenings only] is exceptional; whilst an amaretto con giacchi at the amusement arcade / sky ports bar was a more than acceptable way to watch england’s decline at euro 2004 in portugal.
in anzio we loved the square and enjoyed a bellini and olives at sundown; we ate a super meal in a small restaurant up the road by the side of the church at the back of the square, antipasti to die for
and it got even better after that...the eponymous heroine of the kitchen taking time out to watch the azzuri fail to deliver that evening. we enjoyed the boats and seafront in anzio, and a little public garden above the front.
the landings museum is intimate and contains personal testimonies and artefacts from participants on all sides - it is a moving and worthwhile experience.
nettuno is very pretty, the port and walled medieval town a delight as is the gelateria; but an evening meal in the old square was below par - and watch out for scratchy violin players at your table! the
church is worth a brief visit. just loved the neapolitan ice cream colours of the town hall. we went to the exceptional ninfa [where the gardens are only open the first weekend each month so we missed out this time] and up to
norma perching on a cliff [a slightly strange town..]. we visited friends in the hills beyonf tivoli - it was hot up there and we were glad to get back to our cooler beach. but tivoli and villa d’este are highly regarded,
also frascati for wine lovers has good reports. next time we want to see san felice and st thomas aquinas’ room at fossanova, and visit sabaudia terracina sperlonga and gaeta...plus ostia antica in the other direction.
oh and there’s a city with several [thousand] sights nearby called rome! despite warnings we found getting around [particularly with 4 people navigating] not too bad after initial confusion [all the city maps seem to be
unintelligible at first] and parking seemed easy -but we are used to london...we ate in a sophisticated restaurant near via del corso but really it’s the local places near the sea where it’s at; and watch out for a truly
pricey sit down for a cup of coffee – this is a capital city after all. you will need: towels for bathroom and beach, soap, coffee filter papers or a plunger or strainer; cd’s cos the hifi is great; to know that the switch
for the light above the cooker is on the flex coming down and is sometimes hidden by the cooker lid! you will not need: italian tv [it’s not too great but there is mtv; don’t even think about RAI Uno as the signal is weak
in the area - if desperate eg essential football match, watch it on satellite in a café...] ; nor to leave the villa without holding the door key in your hand - once it’s shut there’s no way back in! [apart from asking
adrian who was really good about it!] [and if the key is left inserted on the inside I understand you have mega problems!] do look after the villa as your own, (and water the grass each evening) so we can return another time
and continue to enjoy the place.
don’t panic - if you need anything ask michaela or adrian eg if the calor gas runs low or whatever.
so, did we enjoy our stay? well, what do you think?
looking forward to ‘07
jeannie and clive, london july 2006.
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